Culture in Panama

National Costume
Panama is famous for its birds and in the bird world it is the male of the species who sports the brightest plumage, not so in the world of humans. Here the Panamanian womenfolk dazzle while the men fade into the background.

If there were to be an international competition for national costumes, the Pollera, Panama's female costume, would surely win for its sheer beauty and grace. It has to be the most flattering garment ever devised and Panamanians are rightly proud of it. The formal version consists of a full skirt with two or three ruffles, each one embroidered or appliquéd in a floral design. The skirt is always white and only one other color is used to embroider it. It is worn over many petticoats. The matching top has one or two embroidered ruffles with colored yarn woven around the neckline and a pompom of the same color at the front. Ribbons of matching colors adorn the waistline and it is worn with soft slippers which also match. The hair is worn up and ornamented with tembleques ( hair ornaments of gold wire and beads) Gold chains hang from the neck and gold and pearl rosettes known as mosquetas hang from the ears or are used as pins.

The pollera montuna (a pollera for every-day wear) is much less spectacular, a full cotton skirt of floral design worn with a fitted white lace blouse.

In comparison the men's costume is very dull. For formal wear they use black pants and a long-sleeved white shirt (camisilla) with gold buttons. A fine straw hat with a black striped design called a pintado and black and white soft shoes complete the outfit and across the breast is worn a coin purse called a chacara. For every-day wear they use brown, mid-calf pants, a long-sleeved calico shirt with or without embroidery, a regular straw hat called a junco and a pair of leather sandals called cutarras. Learn about the Traditional Dress of Panama's Indigenous Indians.

Kuna Indians
Kuna Indian women have a very striking costume which they wear as every-day attire whether back in the San Blas Islands or in Panama City. If you can't make the trip to San Blas, a good place to see them is at the Mi Pueblito attraction on Avenida de los Martires or take a stroll along the pedestrian precinct on Avenida Central. They wear a long, wrap-around skirt, usually navy-blue, printed with one other bright color. On top they wear an appliquéd Mola blouse and on their heads a red and yellow headdress. Gold ornaments adorn the neck and ears, a gold ring through the nose, and strings of beads on arms and ankles.

Guaymie Indians
Guaymie Indians have a colorful costume too but they are seldom seen in Panama City. They live mainly in the Chiriqui Highlands so can be frequently seen in Boquete and Volcan. Women wear long, colorful dresses, usually one bright, solid color with appliquéd triangles of many different hues adorning the neck, sleeves and hem. This costume has been adapted for general use by many ladies since it makes a comfortable dress to relax in at home and variations can be found in handicraft stores. As with the Kuna Indians, Guaymie men have no distinctive costume.

Embera Wounan Indians
Embera Wounana women wear wrap-around skirts and go bare-breasted in their forest homes in Darien. Men wear loin-cloths.

Fairs and Festivals in Panama
Panama's fairs and festivals are colorful and lively. Country-folk are friendly and welcoming so they are excellent venues for visitors to get a taste of the 'real' Panama. Many of them take place in the dry season (December through March) when the weather is fine but they also take place at other times of the year as you can see in the schedule for 2008 which follows.
Jan. 3-8 Macaracas Festival - Los Santos
Jan 10-12 Boquete Flower & Coffee Fair, Chiriquí province
Jan 17-20 Agricultural Fair of Tanara, Chep, Panama provinces
Jan 17-22 San Sebastian Fair, Ocú , Herrera province
Jan 24-27 Orange Fair in Churuquita Grande, Coclé province
Jan 25- Feb 3 La Candelaria in Bugaba, Chiriquí province
Feb 1-3 Santa Fé Fair, Veraguas province
Feb 2-3 Afro/Antillean Fair, Panama City
Feb 13-18 Veraguas Fair in Sona, Veraguas province
Feb 28 - March 2 Darién Fair in Santa Fé, Darien province
March 6-16 David International Fair, Chiriqui province
March 12-16 San José de Tolé Fair, Chiriquí province
March 16-18 La Chitra Fair in Calobre, Veraguas province
March 17 Boquete Orchid Fair, Chiriqui province
March 27 -April 6 Colón Fair, Colon province
March 27 -April 7 Chorrera International Fair, Panama province
April 24 - May 4 Azuero International Fair, Azuero province
April 29 1000 Pollera Parade - Panama
June 12-16 Corpus Cristi Festival, La Villa de Los Santos, Los Santos province
July 17-22 Festival de la Pollera Las Tablas, Los Santos province
Aug 14-17 Festival del Manito, Ocú, Herrera province
Aug 29-31 Flower of the Holy Spirit Fair, Las Minas, Herrera province
Sept 10-15 Internationall Fair of the Sea, Bocas del Toro province
Sept 25-28 National Mejorana Festival, Guararé, Los Santos province
Sept 30-Oct 1 International Fair of Changuinola, Bocas del Toro province
Oct 10-11 Isla Tigre Fair, Kuna Yala territory
Oct 15-19 Toro Guapo Festival, Antón, Coclé province
Oct. 21 Black Christ Festival, Portobelo, Colón province
Oct 22 Coffee Festival in Río Sereno, Chiriquí province
Dec. 11-14 Highland Fair, Volcan, Chiriquí province

Celebration in Macaracas Panama
Celebrate the Epiphany in Macaracas
One of the most colorful celebrations of the Epiphany in Panama is observed in the town of Macaracas, in the province of Los Santos, which commemorates the coming of the Magi to Bethlehem with parades (locally known as tunas), public dances, folklore performances and weddings. The festival will take place January 3-8.

Held since 1820, Macaracas' Epiphany celebrations are a family affair with many traditions, one of which takes place on January 6 when the entire town parades a local couple to their wedding (the bride wears a traditional, white Pollera - the country's national attire for women). Another tradition of this week-long festival is the Junta de Embarre, in which the town's men gather to build a traditional, country-style adobe dwelling for an underprivileged family. The most picturesque scene of this tradition is a horizontal formation of the men, arm-to-arm, who march back and forth on a mixture of mud and hay to prepare the adobe. The women spend the entire day cooking for the workers.

The pinnacle of the celebrations take place at 7:00 p.m. on January 6, when the entire community attends a play depicting the arrival of the Magi. Activities finish with a colorful, old-fashioned parade though town.

Macaracas is a five-hour drive from Panama City. Drivers will need to get on the Pan-American Highway and travel west to the town of Divisa (213km) and make a left turn, after which they will need to take the road leading to Las Minas. There is also a bus service to Macaracas and other towns of the Azuero peninsula, departing from Albrook's Gran Terminal de Transporte.

The Panama Fair in Colon
Colón's party in full swing
The city of Colón, Panama's Atlantic capital, will offer visitors all its Caribbean spice this month during the annual Colón fair, scheduled March 23-April 1 at the grounds adjacent to the Colón 2000 cruise port.

Reflecting the city's strong Caribbean heritage, the fair organizers have also included performances by some of the country's top reggae performers. Folklore dance performances will also be part of the daily list of activities, including that of the Congos, a bizarre African-based dance style that originated in Costa Arriba -the upper coast of the province of Colón.

Colón's fair will be a grand party for all ages, with activities ranging from dog shows and horse riding events, to cattle and handicraft exhibits. There will also be an amusement park and lots of food and drinks.

A visit to Colón's fair can be part of a day tour in the province of Colón, which boasts a number of attractions. In Costa Arriba, the beautiful coast to the east of the city, visitors can find Playa La Angosta (a popular beach among Panamanians), the colonial town of Portobelo and its old Spanish fortifications, and the town of La Guayra, the point from which local boatmen offer transport to Isla Grande, a beautiful tiny island a few hundred meters from the mainland, which provides accomodations for all pockets.

This part of the country is also famous for its Colón Free Zone, only bested by Honk Kong free trade emporium, where a number of stores offer visitors goods from around the world at excellent prices (Items purchased are sent to Tocumen International Airport, to be delivered before departure).

Panama City and Colón are linked by an excellent service of large, air-conditioned buses (some of which are double-deckers) departing from the National Bus Station, located in Albrook. The Panama Canal Railway Company also offers a daily passenger train service to Colón (Call 317-6070). We recommend visitors to take a taxi from either of Colón's terminals to the fair.

For drivers, Colón is between a one-and-a-half to two-hour-drive from the country's capital, along the Trans-Isthmian Highway.

One Thousand Pollera Parade
"One Thousand Pollera" parade honor all Panama's ethnic groups
Panama's national pride will be displayed in full splendor on Sunday, April 29 during the Parade of the One Thousand Polleras on Calle 50, beginning at Almacen Dante and ending at Via Porras.

Organized by the Panama Tourist Board, the event is a tribute to the country's national costume for women, the Pollera, a beautiful, 16th century colonial attire that has been adapted to Panama's culture with indigenous and African elements. One of the most beautiful and expensive dresses in the world, the Pollera features regional variations in each province.

First held in 2003, the parade also honors all of the country's main ethnic groups and their regional costumes. This year, the parade will be held earlier than in previous years, taking advantage of the dry, sunny weather of April.

The event is a tribute to Panama's national female attire and to all of the country's ethnic groups.

Festival of Manito in Azuero
The "Festival Nacional del Manito", in Ocú, province of Herrera, which takes place August 16-19, is one of the most traditional celebrations in the country. Four days of activities including regional dances, duels, and a peasant marriage will be fascinating for the visitor.

The Festival of Manito was created 36 years ago to honor the peasants in Ocú, and owes its peculiar name to the farmers´ habit of greeting each other with the word "mano" (short for "hermano", brother in Spanish).

Around 45 communities are participating this year in the festivities, which will be presided by the queen of the festival Her Majesty, Elida Guadalupe Navarro, a high school student of the San Vicente College in Santiago, Veraguas.

Apart from the national costume, singing and dancing competitions, one of the most interesting events in the festival is the "tamarindo duel", where two men fight with "peinillas" (machetes) for the love of a woman, land or any other score that needs to be settled.

You cannot miss the procession of the penitents, in which those who have committed crimes parade on the streets wearing heavy wooden armor, hiding their faces behind a mask with shackles on their feet to purge their sins.

Other amusing activities are the "juntas de embarre", where a group of neighbors get together to build a house using traditional materials such as mud and straw and the "corridas de toros" (bullfighting). In the Panamanian version the bull never gets killed, but the participants may get hurt.

For the romantic at heart, you can witness a genuine peasant wedding, where the bride and groom are married "for real". After the religious ceremony is finished, the newlyweds accompanied by their guests, singers, dancers and all the town folk celebrate the union in style. The wedding will take place August 18 at 10:00 a.m.

The wedding will take place August 18 at 10:00 a.m.

The festivities start on August 16 at 7:00 p.m. with fireworks and groups of dancers and musicians, who will escort the queen to her court for her coronation and the inauguration of the festival at the grounds of the Fair of San Sebastian. This will be followed by folkloric presentations and a "Tambor de orden" (dance with accordion and violin).

August 17, of the Festival of Manito, is a day dedicated to the children and there will be a national dress contest for boys and girls, singing, dancing and "gritos" (yodelling) competitions. At night there will be popular dances in different parts of the town.

The peasant wedding takes place on August 18 and on the same date at 9:00 p.m. the machete duel will be held, followed by a decimas (improvised singing), competition for youngsters and adults.

The Festival of Manito comes to an end on August 19, with a big folkloric parade, more dances and drum competitions.

To get to Ocú, catch a bus to Chitré from the Panama terminal. Once in Chitre you will find buses that travel directly to Ocú. It is advisable to make reservations at a hotel in Chitré before you go, because accommodation could be scarce.

Mejorana Festival in Panama
The "Mejorana Festival" in Guararé, Los Santos province, is a celebration of the spirit of all the traditions of Panama. The Mejorana Festival will take place from September 23 to 27 and coincides with the patron saint festivities of ?Virgen de Las Mercedes?.

The "mejoranera" is the musical instrument from which the festival takes its name. It is a type of guitar, smaller than the Spanish one and usually manufactured in the workshops of the town. It only has four strings.

The first organizers of the festival selected the name "mejoranera" because of its wide use in the music, singing and dancing of the province.

Mejoraneros, drummers, accordionists, artisans, "décimas" (singing poetry) singers and folkloric groups from all parts of the country will take part in this four-day festival. Competitions include one for the written "décima", dedicated to Professor Manuel F. Zarate, creator of the Mejorana Festival, and another is for the sung "décima".

Of all activities during the Mejorana Festival, the Parade of the Carriages is the most spectacular, because all the folkloric groups, tunas (folkloric dancers and musicians), and floats of all the traditional, commercial and governmental intities take part.

To travel to Guararé, take a bus from the Panama Bus Terminal to Las Tablas. There you can find accommodation, but Guararé has few hotels. Make your reservation on time, because during the time of the Mejorana Festival few rooms are available.

The Mejorana Festival takes places in Guarare and honors all the traditions of Panama.

Torito Guapo Festival in Panama
The Handsome Bull, a festival of the interior provinces of Panama
The festival of Torito Guapo (Handsome Bull), is one of the most original and fun-filled folklore festivities of the province of Coclé. The event will take place from October 11 to 15 de in the district of Antón. It will feature dances, horse riding parades, "mojaderas" (throwing of water), "tipico" dresses, music and domestic chores competitions.

The cattle raising tradition of the region gives the name to this festival. The "toritos guapos" or brave bulls, are popular characters who take to the streets at carnival time to charge the passers- by.

The "toro guapo" costume is built on dry bamboo, forming a structure, covered with cloth or leather, topped by a fake cow´s head and a great number of mirrors and ribbons or ropes. Usually a skillful dancer, the "Toro Guapo" will prance around while performing the traditional dance, all the time trying to charge the "empolleradas", (women wearing the traditional national custom of Panama).

This year the festivities start October 11 with the "Day of the Children". After the coronation of the children´s queen, Her Majesty, Jaissa Milagros Rivera Wilburn , there will be a folklore children´s parade, follow by a folklore abilities competition, fireworks and more folklore dances.

On October 12, at midday the bells will start ringing and the dance of the "Diablos Limpios" (clean devils) will commence. They are masked characters, who wear black pants, white shirts, conic hats adorned with mirrors, flowers and multicolor feathers. They use handkerchiefs tied to their waists and they carry a stick covered with handkerchiefs and bells to announce their arrival.

The same night at 8:00 p.m., the festival´s queen, Her Majesty, Karen Linette Quintero Sánchez will be crowned. After that they will be folklore presentations, dance and singing competitions and fireworks.

On Saturday at 11:30 a.m. there will be a "mojadera" with "totumas" (the participants throw water to each other using utensils made of a type of pumpkin). At 2:00 p.m. the domestic chores competition will start: with rice pounding, wood cutting, coconut peeling, cow milking, coconut grinding and wood carrying. At 4:00 p.m. comes the ceremony of putting the "cutarras" (sandals used by peasants) on the hoofs of a cow. This strange event, commemorates an old trick used by cattle robbers, so that the animals did not leave any footprints.

On Sunday the fun continues with a sunrise "tuna" (musicians and dancers dance on the streets) at 5:00 a.m. It will be followed by the blessing of the bulls and the fights of the "toros guapos", in which the dancers pretend to attack one another following the rhythm of three drums, a box like drum and a small bell called "almirez", a type of bronze mortar utilized by pharmacists to grind medicines.

Around midday there will be parades, folklore presentations, dance competitions, the dance of the juvenile bull, popular festivities, and dances. The celebrations will culminate on October 15 with a horse riding and bull parade around the principal streets of Antón.

Buses from the Panama terminal in Albrook go direct to Anton. Accommodation can be found in Anton and other nearby towns, but it is advisable to make reservations.

Typical Music in Panama
A walk down any busy street will be enough to convince a visitor that Panama moves to the rhythm of music. It blares from car radios and bus sound systems, from shops, in malls, everywhere you go. Some of it is the latest local and international pop music but mostly the air is filled with the sound of tropical salsa which has its origins deep in the history of the country.

Panama´s cultural music comes from folklore and traditional trends influenced in one way or the other by European dances and African drums and chants.

It all started when the Spanish conquerors arrived on the isthmus in the early part of the XVIth Century. Music was part of the long journey made by sailors who brought styles and dances such as flamenco and pasodoble, tap dance or "zapateo" known today as "mejorana" dance, accompanied by rustic guitars played by gypsies.

During the XVIIth, XVIIIth and XIXth centuries, many African slaves were brought to America; Panama was part of the trade.

The slaves brought with them their homemade drums and chants that were heard on docks as well as in tobacco and sugar plantations.

Panamanians adopted these rhythms and created fusions such as tamborito, tamborera (the result of Cuban son and danzon with tamborito), punto, denesa, cumbia chorrerana, mejorana, zaracunde from the provinces of Los Santos and Herrera, bunde, bullerengue from the province of Darien and the congos from Colon on the Atlantic-Caribbean sector.

The Spanish influence merged with African rhythms. Today, decimas (ten line verses) are similar to those from Spain and are sung backed by guitars. These ten line verses reflect the feeling of the common person in the streets.

Dances, above all, are choreographed with African movements as in the case of congos from Colon. The tamborito is played with the small drums known as bonko chemiya in Cuba, with roots in a bigger African drum known as "yucca". The rhythm is danced by women dressed in colorful "polleras" and sandals wearing golden jewelry and men with stylishly adorned white "guayabera" shirts, the "montuno" hat known also as "pintao" or "junco" and sandals made of brown black and white leather. Female vocalists interpret the solo voice called "saloma", similar to the gypsy chants accompanied by a chorus.

Another aspect of Panamanian typical music are the "Diablitos Sucios" (Dirty Devils) dressed in colorful outfits and masks who tap dance as they clap with the Spanish castanuets. These dances represent good against evil and the struggles that indigenous groups had with the conquerors.

Another key instrument in Panamanian typical music is the accordion. The first one arrived on the isthmus in the 1830's made in Germany with keys but the one adopted in Panama in the 1950's for dancing purposes is the one known as the "diatonic" accordion with buttons. This instrument replaced the violin, which led the melody section accompanied by the small typical drum, flute, guitar and guiro (the latter made of calabash vegetable and played with a small stick).

Every year, Panamanians in the central provinces of Los Santos and Herrera, celebrate the Mejorana Festival which was founded in 1949. Contests such as "Gelo Cordoba" for musical bands, "Colaco Cortez" for fiddlers, "Gumercindo Diaz" for drummers, "Manuel F. Zarate" for "decimas" authors, are part of the events.

Panamanian typical music arrived from the interior to the capital city and the traditional roots started a process of fusions, such as the "urban cumbia", a blend of tamborito and salsa styles at the beginning of the XXIst Century promoted by Sammy and Sandra Sandoval.

Enjoy Carnival in Panama
Las Tablas: No one knows for sure, but the population of this otherwise sleepy town seems to quadruple during the four-day festivities. In the last two decades, Las Tablas has become the country's Carnival capital, attracting increasing numbers of visitors due to its folklore twist.

Colón: The congos (a centuries'-old Panamanian dance genre mixing African and Spanish traditions), reggae performances and calypso bands combine in the city of Colón to offer visitors a Caribbean-style Carnival in Panama. The City of Colón is 80 km. northweast of Panama City via the Trans-Isthmian Highway. Don't miss the congo performances, which take place throughout the Costa Arriba region (Portobelo and Isla Grande).

Province of Herrera: The friendly people of this province welcome you to their quaint towns at this time of year. Foklore is the forte of the province. Its capital, Chitré, is a national mecca for the festivities, but the towns of Ocú and Parita are strong rivals. The city of Chitré, which boasts the largest number of hotels in the Azuero Peninsula, is a three-hour drive from Panama City.

Island of Taboga: The absence of cars on the "Island of Flowers" is a perfect excuse to party on its narrow streets all day. Parades on the island are small, but colorful. A ferry service operates to the island, which is 12 nautical miles from the Pacific entrance of the Panama Canal.

Chame and Bejuco: The residents of the coastal communities of Chame and Bejuco (western sector of the province of Panama) have Carnival in their blood. Those visiting these towns can enjoy lively culecos: out-door parties in which participants are free to jump and dance as they are doused by water.

Penonomé: Carnivals in the capital city of the province of Coclé are unique as they boast the country's only aquatic version of the pre-Lenten celebration. The parade of floats at Río Las Mendozas is superb. Penonomé is a two-hour drive (147 km.) from the nation's capital via the Pan-American Highway.

Panama's lost Mayan city?
On returning to Caldera Village Juan saved his best piece for last. He claims that there is a lost Mayan city in the jungles of Bocas del Torro. A local architect and explorer friend of Juan Gutierrez, was taken to the location by a tribal chief.. His friend was not allowed to take pictures and was led blindfold to the site.

Allegedly there are three truncated Mayan pyramids located there. They measure five meters high and are about six meters along each side. Juan has invited me to go on an expedition to find them.

My dear wife has said, "not a chance in hell are you going," However if there are any aspiring archeologist / adventurers out there who are up to the challenge, this is my email address: (chiriquivillage@yahoo.ca.)

Ps. You will need to bring your own Indiana Jones hat.

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A destination filled with surprises
Located in central Panama, the Azuero peninsula encompasses the provinces of Herrera, Los Santos and a portion of Veraguas, but, since most of the population of the region resides in the first two, the name generally refers to Herrera and Los Santos.

Folklore is by far the greatest tourist attraction of the area. There are over 600 folklore or religious festivals each year, as even the smallest community devotes a day to its own patron saint. The most important festivals are Carnival in Panama (Feb/March), the Ocú International Fair (Ocú, province of Herrera, in January), the Azuero International Fair (April/May), the Pollera National Festival (honoring Panama's beautiful female costume, in July), and La Mejorana Festival in Guararé (September).

Los Santos town revives old Spanish fiesta
Some of the most vivid folklore performances of the season can be enjoyed in the town of La Villa, province of Los Santos, during the Corpus Christi festival, scheduled May 19-June 5.

The celebration, which dates back to medieval Spain, is a mixture of the religious fervor of the Roman Catholic faith and native traditions, both of which are strong in the Azuero Peninsula (the provinces of Herrera and Los Santos). The combination results in ten days of color, dances and humor, best represented by the diablicos sucios (dirty devils), odd-looking characters depicting the triumph of evil following the death of Christ.

The religious element of Corpus Christi starts on May 21 with a mass known as "Cuarteo del Sol". The highlight of the religious part, however, takes place May 26 with the Corpus Christi mass, which signals the beginning of the dance performances at the town's main square.

Visitors are especially encouraged to attend the festivities on Tourism Day (June 4), which will feature, dances and recreational activities for all ages. Activities formally conclude with Women's Day (June 5), on which the ladies of La Villa, dressed in costume, will harrass and scare visitors throughout town.

Accommodations in La Villa, which is a three-and-a-half hour drive from Panama City, are few, but the town is only a bridge away from Chitré, the largest city in the Azuero region, where most hotels are located.

An excellent bus service departs to Chitré, La Villa and most towns of Azuero from the National Bus Terminal, located in Albrook. Visitors can also fly into Chitré on daily, scheduled flights departing from Marcos A. Gelabert Airport, also located in Albrook.

Las Tablas, birthplace of the Pollera
With your cultural appetite sharpened by the upcoming 1000 Pollera Parade in Panama City, it´s time to plan a trip further affield to celebrate a the Pollera in its true home, the interior.

The Pollera National Festival will be celebrated in Las Tablas, July 13-22 and playing a starring role will be Señorita Victoria Barrios Cedeño who has been elected Festival Queen.

The celebration starts Friday July 13 with a folclórico parade through the a principle streets of the town. During the month the Pollera National Festival will be enlivened with a national violin contest and a Camisilla (shirt) and sombrero contest. The sombrero event will be in two categories, luxury (white or colored) and regular (rush). A good time to chose a new piece of headgear.

The Pollera National Festival culminates on July 22 with a grand National Competition of the Pollera and an allegorical parade involving student minstrels, street musicians and, of course, polleras.

It´s worth the trip to Las Tablas to experience first hand a truly national event and absorb the culture of the country.

Los Santos, Guardian of Folklore
Los Santos is located on the Azuero Peninsula. Its capital is Las Tablas. It has an estimated population of 83,500 and in recent years has suffered a considerable decrease through migration to other provinces. Districts of the province are Los Santos, Guararé, Macaracas, Tonosí, Las Tablas, Pocrí, and Pedasí. Los Santos province is regarded as being the mecca of tradition and folklore which is enshrined in the carnival celebrations every year at Las Tablas. The main economic activities include: agriculture in Guararé and Pedasí; salt industry in Guararé; corn crops and cattle-raising in Pedasí and Tonosí; pig and chicken farming in Pocri.

Cocle
The capital of Coclé is Penonomé, so named after the legend of an Indian chief called Nomé. He was killed by the Spanish there and the name stems from the phrase "Aquí Penó Nomé" or "here Nomé suffered". Coclé is one of the central provinces and comprises the districts of Aguadulce, Natá, Olá, La Pintada, Penonomé and Antón. The principal economic activity is cattle and handicraft such as hats, purses, etc. In La Pintada, coffee is grown, and Aguadulce has extensive shrimp farms. In Antón, livestock and rice crops are the main activities. The population is approximately 202,500 people. The people of Coclé are proud of their cultural heritage and are conscious of regional solidarity.

Kuna Indian Territory (Dule Nega)
This Indian reservation lies in the north east of the isthmus, on the coastal strip from San Blas Point to the border with Colombia; it also includes a beautiful archipelago of tiny islands inhabited by the Kuna Indians (32,446 inhabitants) who have their own type of government and also preserve their own culture. The Government administrator or "Intendente" works out of the island of El Porvenir. Great quantities of coconuts are grown and the "molas" which the women sew in reverse applique are a sought-after souvenir for tourists and cruise ship passengers who visit.

Ngobe Buglé Territory
Formerly known as Guaymie, this major subdivision of Native Americans comprises two cultural groups: the Ngobe and the Buglé, the members of which live in tiny hamlets scattered throughout the mountains of the Central Cordillera mountain range and work in agricultural activities, such as the banana and coffee plantations of the region. The Ngobe Buglé are known for special handicrafts: the famous chaquiras - necklaces and bracelets made with tiny plastic beads and the colorful female gowns, an attractive item for tourist women. Considered the largest of Panama's indigenous groups (65.5% of local Native Americans), the Ngobe Buglé are also the country's fastest growing tribe. According to the 2000 Census, the group's population was estimated in 186,861 people.

The Emberá and Wounaan Territory
Most of the members of this Native American group live in a special comarca (territory) in the heart of the Darién jungle. The group, however, is a relatively recent new-comer in Panama. They migrated to the Isthmus from the region of Chocó, in Colombia (hence their former name of Chocoes). Representing 10% of all Panamanian Indians, the Emberá and Wounaan (two related, but culturally different groups) make a living from agriculture, hunting and fishing. In 2000, their population stood at 29,367.

The lost tribe of Dorasques
Did they leave Aztec or Mayan - style buildings hidden in the western jungles of Panama?
Since I read your article about "Cerro Pando's Hot Springs " I wanted to send you an e-mail. I visited those places in July, 1999. I remember that was an interesting tour. There were butterflies, birds, squirrels and many kinds of prickly caterpillars on the trees' leaves and walking on the ground. The road was in very bad conditions. We had to walk for three hours while it was drizzling. We had to pass creeks that cross the road and walk over a trunk. Years later, the road to "Los Pozos" continues in the same condition. I don't know why the government or local authorities don't do something about it. This area has a great tourism potential.

Your newest article published on January 26th, attracted my attention specially. I believe those petroglyphs have not been studied as they really need. Since long time ago, people have said there are some kind of ruins or buildings among the forests of Chiriqui or Bocas del Toro, but there isn't any photographs of those ruins. I have a book, it's name is "Un pueblo visto a través de su lenguaje" ("A nation seen through its language"). It was written by Beatriz Miranda de Cabal, one of the best historians of Chiriqui during last century. In her book, she described the Dorasque/Dorace people, their way of living, language (she included a dictionary of words and phrases), traditions and legends.

Who were Dorasques/Doraces, you could ask. They were indigenous people that used to live in Chiriqui, Bocas del Toro and near Terraba River ( Costa Rica ). They gave Chiriqui its name, not the Gnöbe-Bugle indigenous, like many people believe. They became extinct before 1950. Beatriz Miranda de Cabal interviewed an elderly indigenous woman (the last Dorasque) for her book, but she only could publish it several years later, in 1974.

Beatriz Miranda de Cabal was my grandmother's godmother and she dedicated and signed the book for her. She handwrote short notes about legends, one of them said: "There are colonial documents that confirm an Aztec village in the Isthmus' North coast" (in Bocas del Toro). Another one says: "Juan Landau (one of the pioneers of Boquete) found in "Potrero de La Estrella " (between Caldera and Jaramillo Arriba there is the village of La Estrella ) monumental ruins similar to Mayan buildings. I don't know but I think that she was a reliable historian and she would not write a lie.

I suggest you and your wife to visit Museum Jose De Obaldia y Barrio Bolivar, David, and then go to Fundacion Cultural Gallegos, next to the museum. There, you can ask for Mr. Mario Molina (Historian) or his wife, Mrs. Dalva Acuña de Molina (History Teacher). I think they or another historian could help you to know more about Chiriqui's past. Before going to explore you should know what you want to look for.

Another suggestion: please, you should not believe people without History's knowledge. Petroglyphs tell us about real ancient villagers of our lands and that is more interesting than UFO's and aliens. I think if there is something unusual among our forests. It could be only ancient, forgotten ruins, instead of secret pyramids or treasures that some ingenuous country people imagine for telling to tourists. Anyway, whoever gives the truth to the rest of the world will be famous, like archaeologists or explorers interviewed in Discovery or History Channel. Mr. Dell, thanks for writing those interesting articles about Chiriqui for "The Visitor". In this letter to our correspondent, David Dell, a reader gives The Visitor some fascinating clues to an ancient civilization.

Panama National Holidays
It is wise to be aware of Panama's National Holidays when the whole country closes down and businesses and banks are closed. Most are fixed dates but Good Friday and Carnival vary each year since they are calculated from the date of Easter. In 2009 the government has decreed 2 'bridge days' when the holiday is changed give a long weekend. These are Martyr's Day when the holiday will be changed to Monday, Jan 9 and Independence from Spain when the holiday will be on Monday, November 28.

Jan 1       New Year
Jan 9       Martyr's Day
Feb 24    Carnival Tuesday
Apr 10    Good Friday
May 1     Labor Day
Nov 3      Independence from Colombia
Nov 5      First Cry of Independence (from Colombia) in Colon
Nov 10    First Cry of Independence from Spain in Los Santos
Nov 28    Independence from Spain
Dec 8       Mothers´ Day
Dec 25     Christmas Day

Theaters in Panama
There is no professional theater in Panama but amateur theater is vibrant, of high quality and local productions are popular. Most of the plays are in Spanish and need a fairly good understanding of the language for complete enjoyment. However well-known musicals are often performed and the Theater Guild of Ancon is an English-speaking company with frequent production.

The Ancon Theater, situated in the former Canal Zone beside the PTJ (Policia Tecnica Judicial) building in Ancon has been presenting plays for over 50 years. They stage several productions each year. Consult the Coming Events Calendar of this website or the Visitor newspaper for news of current shows or call the Theater at 212-0060.

Other Theaters (performances in Spanish)
Teatro ABA. Tel: 236-3258/260-6316
Teatro En Circulo. Tel: 261-5259
Teatro La Quadra: Tel: 214-3695
Teatro Nacional: Tel: 262-2535
Teatro Balboa : Tel: 22 8-0327

Religious Festivals
Panama's main religion is Roman Catholicism resulting in an abundance of religious festivals and saint's days. Each district has its own particular saint and individual style of celebration so that there are frequent opportunities for the visitor to participate and it is a good way to experience first-hand some of Panama's culture. The following is a list for 2008.
Jan 15 Cristo Esquipulas in Antón, Cocle province
Feb 2 La Virgen de Candelaria de Antón, various provinces
Feb 8 Jesús Nazareno de Atalaya, Veraguas province
Feb 14 La Virgen de Lourdes, Guararé, Los Santos province
Mar 7 San Juan de Dios, various provinces
Mar 18 San Felipe in Portobello, Colon province
April 2 San Francisco de Padua in Río de Jesús, Darien province
May 8 Nuestro Senor de los Milagros, La Mesa, Veraguas province
May 13 San Isidro in various provinces
May 16 Religious Festival of Cativa, Colón province
May 22 Santa Rita in various provinces
June 12 Corpus Cristi in La Villa, Los Santos and in Puerto Lindo and Portobelo, Colon province
June 13 San Antonio de Padua - Puerto Armuelles, Chiriquí province
June 24 St John the Baptist in Chitré & other provinces
June 25 Santiago Apostol in Ocú, Herrrera province
June 29 San Pedro Monagrillo, Chitré, Herrera province
June 30 San Pablo, Pedasi y El Cocal, Los Santos province
July 16 La Virgen del Carmen, various provinces
July 20 Santa Librada, Los Santos province
July 25 Santiago Apostol in Santiago, Veraguas province
Aug 2 Nuestra Senora de los Angeles in Guacalca, Chiriquí province
Aug 4 Santo Domingo de Guzman in Herrera and Los Santos provinces
Aug 10 San Lorenzo, various provinces
Aug 16 San Roque, various provinces
Aug 20 San Bernardo, Los Santos province
Aug 30 Santa Rosa, various provinces
Sept 21 Santo Tomas de Villa Nueva, Los Santos province
Sept 24 Virgen de las Mercedes, Herrera and Los Santos provinces
Sept 29 San Miguel Arcangel, Herrera and Veraguas provinces
Oct 4 San Francisco de Assisi, various provinces
Oct 5 La Virgen del Rosario, Guararé, Los Santos province
Oct 16 Santa Eduviges, Sabanitas, Colón province
Oct 21 Festival del Cristo Negro, Portobelo, Colón province
Oct 28 San Judas Tadeo, various provinces
Nov 25 Santa Catalina, Pedasi, Los Santos province
Dec 4 Santa Barbara en Las Minas, Herrera and Los Santos provinces
Dec 17 La Virgen de Guadalupe, various provinces

Typical Food
Panama abounds with restaurants offering delicacies from all over the world but very few of them offer typical Panamanian food and no visitor should leave without trying some of the specialities of the country. The restaurants Las Tinajas and El Trapiche offer Panamanian fare in comfortable surroundings. The following is a list of typical dishes.

Sancocho - is probably the most famous Panamanian dish. It is a soup made from chicken, yucca or name with cilantro and spices. Some claim it has magical hangover curing properties.

Ropa Vieja ( Old Clothes) - is a tasty stew of beef and tomatoes.

Carimanola - a roll made from ground and fried yucca, filled with chopped beef or chicken. The roll is then deep fried before serving.

Empanadas - these are something like a pastry turnover. Some are made from flour and others from corn. They can be filled with meat, chicken or cheese and are usually fried before serving.

Tortillas - are made from ground maize and fried like a pancake.

Tamales -are a very popular local delicacy. They are made from boiled ground corn with spices, chicken or pork inside. The tamal is wrapped in banana leaf and boiled before serving.

Tamal de Olla ( Tamal in a pot) - uses the above ingredients, but instead of wrapping them up in banana leaf, they are all cooked together in a pot.

Patacones - are made from green plantain which is fried, cut crossways in pieces, pressed flat and fried again.

Chicheron - deep fried pork rind.

Classical Music in Panama
In Panama, the most important representation of classical music is the National Symphony Orchestra of Panama, founded in 1941. Since that time, this group has been composed of classically-trained musicians that played "for the love of the art". Today, the orchestra has at least 64 musicians hired on a permanent basis, thanks to the government and private patrons.

Another entity representing classical music in Panama is The National Concert Association, founded in 1962 and inscribed as a Non-Profit Organization in 1973. With the help of renowned musicians from across the world, the association has been able to fortify Panamanian musical culture through their International Concerts Season from April to October, as well as academic opportunities to aspiring musicians of all ages.

Embera influenced Nobel prizewinner
The 2008 Nobel Prize for Literature was won by Jean-Marie Gustave Le Clézio, who said that the Embera Indians of Panama have influenced his life and ideas. Edilia Camargo, a professor of philosophy, recalled that when he was studying in the 1970's, he lived in Panama and contracted malaria. He explained that the Embera culture was portrayed in the play Hai (1971). He even narrated their healing ceremony.

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